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Βιέννη! Αεροπορικα εισητηρια για να περάσετε μαγεμένα Χριστούγεννα

Η πάλαι ποτέ παιδική χαρά των Αψβούργων μοιάζει να ζει και να αναπνέει για τα Χριστούγεννα, με τις φημισμένες διεθνώς υπαίθριες χριστουγεννιάτικες αγορές της (Christkindlmarkts) να στήνονται κάθε χρόνο όλο και νωρίτερα, ήδη δηλαδή από τις 15 Νοεμβρίου: ξεκινώντας από τη μεγαλύτερη και πιο γνωστή, αυτή μπροστά από το Δημαρχείο στη Rathausplatz μέχρι την πιο εστέτ, αυτή που κάνει κατάληψη στα ειδυλλιακά πλακόστρωτα σοκάκια του Spittelberg (το χωριό μέσα στην πόλη, όπως το αποκαλούν οι Βιεννέζοι). To Spittelberg είναι μια γειτονιά του 19ου αιώνα γεμάτη τα τελευταία χρόνια από μποέμικα μπαράκια - στέκια καλλιτεχνών (όπως το Amerling-Beisl με τον εσωτερικό κήπο και τη συρόμενη οροφή, Stiftgasse 8), γκουρμέ εστιατόρια (ξεχωρίζει το μεταμοντέρνο Kulinarium 7 στη Sigmundsgasse) και ψαγμένες μπουτίκ ντόπιων σχεδιαστών, που έχουν κάνει κατάληψη στα στυλ Biedermeier σπίτια της. Εδώ στήνονται γύρω στα 100 ξύλινα stands που προσελκύουν πάνω από 500.000 άτομα και προσφέρουν δώρα, στολίδια και παραδοσιακές χριστουγεννιάτικες λιχουδιές, όπως το «ψωμί της ζωής» Lebkuchen (μπισκότα με βάση το τζίντζερ), gebrannte Mandeln (ζαχαρωμένα ψητά αμύγδαλα), Maroni (κάστανα), Bratkartoffel (ψητές πατάτες), Bratwurst (λουκάνικα) και, πάνω από όλα, gliihwein (γλυκό κόκκινο κρασί με μπαχαρικά).

Έχετε αεροπορικα εισητηρια και φτάσατε στη Βιέννη. Αν επιθυμείτε να δείτε την ντυμένη στα λευκά Βιέννη να απλώνεται μπροστά σας, τότε κατευθυνθείτε στο Onyx Bar, στον 6ο όροφο του ξενοδοχείου DO & CO, απ' όπου θα έχετε την καλύτερη θέα προς τον γοτθικό καθεδρικό του Αγίου Στεφάνου, στο Dachboden bar, στον τελευταίο όρο¬φο του 25hours hotel (Lerchenfelder Strasse 1 - 3) ή στο κοσμοπολίτικο Le Loft restaurant, bar & lounge (στον 18ο όροφο του Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom, δίπλα στο κανάλι του Δούναβη).

Η χειμερινή εκδοχή της Βιέννης, σε σχέση με την ανοιξιάτικη/καλοκαιρινή, προτρέπει τον επισκέπτη να αφιερώσει περισσότερο χρόνο στην εξερεύνηση του φημισμένου εμπορικού της τριγώνου που σχηματίζουν οι πεζοδρομημένοι, πλακόστρωτοι και άκρως εντυπωσιακοί Karntnerstrasse, Kohlmarkt και Graben. Αυτό μεταφράζεται σε νωχελικά πρωινά πίνοντας μυρωδάτο καφέ και τσιμπολογώντας φρεσκοψημένα στρούντελ στα φημισμένα υπεραιωνόβια καφέ της πόλης, ξεκινώντας από το κεντρικό cafe Central (εξαιρετικό το Kaiserschmarrn του, αγαπημένο γλυκό του αυτοκράτορα) και το cafe Hawelka (που κάθε μέρα στις 10 το πρωί ψήνει λαχταριστά buchteln, pancakes με γέμιση μαρμελά¬δας και κρέμας) και καταλήγοντας στους «Διόσκουρους» της κουλτούρας του καφέ, το μεγαλοπρεπές Cafe Sacher και το ατμοσφαιρικό Cafe Demel (με τη γυάλινη τζαμαρία της εσωτερικής του σάλας να σου επιτρέπει να βλέπεις τους ντυμένους στα λευκά ζαχαροπλάστες - καλλιτέχνες επί το έργον). Απαραίτητη και μια στάση στο Cafe Landtmann (Universitatsring 4), όπου προτιμούσε να περνάει το χρόνο του ο Σίγκμουντ Φρόιντ. Σχεδόν δεδομένο είναι ότι θα ξοδέψετε εξίσου πολύ χρόνο εντός του Julius Meinl am Graben, του τριώροφου υπερντελικατέσεν της πόλης (με σήμα το μικρό αγόρι με τουρμπάνι), που διαθέτει από φούρνο και γιαπωνέζικο tea shop μέχρι εστιατόριο sushi και wine bar, σης στολισμένες βιτρίνες των μαγαζιών με σήμα το δείγμα αυτοκρατορικής εύνοιας k.u.k. Hoflieferant (J. & L. Lobmeyr για είδη από γυαλί, Α. Ε. K6chert για κοσμήματα, Knize για ρούχα και αξεσουάρ για άντρες, Rudolf Scheer & Sohne για παπούτσια) και στα τραπέζια του εστιατορίου Zum Schwarzen Kameel στην Bognerstrasse, που λειτουργεί από το 1618 και ακριβώς δίπλα διαθέτει patisserie και delicatessen. Ανεξάρτητα από το τι καιρό κάνει, αξίζει να δοκιμάσετε το πρωινό ή το brunch στο Meierei (www.steirereck.at), την πιο προσιτή οικονομικά εκδοχή του βραβευμένου Steirereck (που βρίσκεται ακριβώς στον επάνω όροφο) εντός του Stadtpark, μπροστά από το ποτάμι, με έμφαση σε οτιδήποτε φτιάχνεται με γάλα και εξαιρετικό στρούντελ.

Το τέλος της χειμερινής σας εξόρμησης γράφεται ιδανικά - και άκρως παραδοσιακά - παρακολουθώντας την επίδειξη των περίφημων λευκών αλόγων Lippizan της Ισπανικής Αυτοκρατορικής Σχολής Ιππασίας στο χώρο του πρώην αυτοκρατορικού παλατιού Hofburg (www.srs.at), ακούγοντας την παιδική χορωδία αγοριών της Βιέννης (www.wienersaengerknaben.at), σύμβολο της βιεννέζικης παράδοσης από το 1498, και, φυσικά, παρακολουθώντας κάποια παράσταση στην Όπερα της Βιέννης (www. wiener-staatsoper.at). Βρείτε Φθηνα αεροπορικα εισητηρια για Βιεννη.

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